Wargaming on a Budget: Making Walls for the Gameboard

Welcome back to Wargaming on a Budget.  Many years ago, I barely held onto the hobby of wargaming, because I was getting priced out of it.  All my money was going to being a young parent and homeowner.  No time or money for wargaming.  Plus, when I started wargaming Do-IT-Yourself was a huge part of the hobby.  There was not much pre-made terrain or supplies for wargaming, and instead you had to get creative, loot like crazy, and use your imagination!  In honor to this bygone era of wargaming, I like to show off some of the tips and tricks of yesteryear to help make wargaming an affordable hobby.  Plus, there is a certain pride one can take in terrain they built up themselves.  

Last, time you may recall that I built a Kill Team sized game board.  However, it is not enough to simply have a game board, you need to create fire lanes, corners to cover, and other nooks and crannies to make your games much more tactically challenging and fulfilling.  Today, I am going to show you an easy way to "fill-in" the board for compelling games.  

Before you begin, you will want a metal edged ruler, a razor cutter, pencil/pen, PVA or similar glue, masking tape, cereal card/card stock, sprue bits, and then the paints you will use.  Spray paint works great for this project. 

The first thing I decided to do was use some of my left-over cardboard and cut it into 6 inch tall and 8 inch long rectangular sections.  It is best to have a metal edged ruler, so that when you cut with your box cutter/razor blade you can use the metal edge as a guide.  In addition, you will want to run your razor blade over the cut a few times to get through the various layers of a corrugated box.  Cut on something you don't mind slicing up like another layer of boxes or a cutting mat.  Your blade WILL go through and cut whatever is underneath so do not cut on your kitchen table, counter top, or carpeted floor.  You will regret it.  

I cut-out 10 pieces, and you can make them various lengths and heights, but I made them all the same.  I made my walls 6 inches tall, but honestly 4 often does the job and makes it easier to get in and out of the board.     

Once you have the wall sections cut you will want to add a few doorways as openings in your long wall sections.  These make great little chokepoints and short cuts to move around the board.  Each wall section should have 0-2 or these.  For most 28mm miniatures, these doorways will be about 1-1/4 inch wide and about 1-3/4 inches tall.  It might make sense to put a model where you want the door to make sure the dimensions are big enough.  Then, you use the same method as cutting the card to cut-out the door way.  Once you cut out one, the scrap can be used as a guide for the rest.      

Next step is to use your masking tape to seal all the edges and corners of the cardboard.  This strengthens the cardboard, but also seals off any bad cuts and the unsightly corrugated edge.  When you paint the cardboard, it will help it look finished.  You do not have to be too precise in this step, just make sure all gaps are covered.  

Next, take two or three sections of walls, and simply paste them together using PVA glue at 90 degree angles.  I like to make T and H shaped sections, but U and L shapes also work well.  You will need to put the glue along the edge of the wall, and then simply hold them together for a few minutes while they dry.  Not much different than assembling models.  I hade two H shapes, and 2 L shapes when I was done gluing all 10 pieces together. 

A Reaper Cloud Giant and Axolotl mage for scale 

Congrats, you are now ready to do the time consuming part.  The first thing you do is take bits of cereal packet and cut three pieces for each side of the doorway.  You glue these on to create a door frame around each archway.  So you put one strip across the top, and one on each side of the door.  Then you do it again on the opposite side of the wall piece.  This helps the openings look like actual doorways. 

From there, you grab your bitz box, cut-up sprues, cereal packet, and assorted found items and go to town gluing them all over the surface of the wall sections with your PVA.  Some good bits are squares of cereal packet, cut up straws, bits of screen, and corner sprue pieces, string hanging out from under a bit of card, or long sections of sprue.  More angular shapes work better than organic shapes.  These additions will create the illusion of texture on the walls once they are painted.  This is the longest step of the process.  

Once you have suitably covered the wall sections with scrap, you will be ready to paint.  I recommend three layers.  The initial layer should be the lightest and a full covering.  This will be the base color.  Then, I recommend a darker color than the base coat, and I would use a distance spray as you do not want this coat to over-power your initial coat.  I also spend a bit of time using the darker color on the edges of the wall and any large blocked up shapes on the wall.  The final spray is another distance spray of black to add some texture, and maybe around any doorways to darken them up.  When this stage is done, the walls will look something like the below.....

Now comes the final step.  Go online and print up some posters and graffiti online.  Carefully cut these out and glue them around on your walls.  You can also use stencils and the like in order to paint numbers and letters on the wall to add that "pop" of detail.  It is also a good time to take some acrylic paints like bronze, brass, copper, black and oranges and drybrush along the edges of some of the edges.  You can also paint a few squares here and there.  All these details make your walls look "lived in" and more like a location worth fighting over instead of a blank space  

Once you have all of your sections done, you can easily set them out on your game board in different combinations to make narrow corridors, open bays, and wide edges.  You can use your L, T, U and H shaped wall sections to make a variety of interesting shapes and tactical situations.  For added fun, you can even put them on your board at an angle instead of flush or straight with the edges.  Also be sure to add the scatter terrain for the final look! 

Well, you can see the same basic shapes in the game board and the walls in order to make compelling and inexpensive game boards.  The same spray cans can be used for each stage, and the materials are all found materials, and simple household items.  This board cost less than a single blister of miniatures.    

  

Until next time! 

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Wargame Design: Terrain Placement is a Tool

For much of my career, I was blinded by resolution mechanics and activation processes as the key to fun game play.  This was a mistake.  As I explore more games, design more games, and just think a lot more about games I realize that there are a lot of other places to look at that help make a game fun and interesting.  For example, I have been rethinking how Movement can be more innovative, how to create tactical game play, and building balance into your games.

An area that very rarely gets looked at our discussed is board set-up and creation.  As I playtest the rules for Wars of the Roman Republic I have again realized the importance of terrain placement, and the mechanics around how this is completed.  Terrain is an X factor that helps make games much deeper and more interesting.  It can restrict movement, add defensive benefits, and change where and how interactions occur. 

Good board lay out can do the following to enhance game play:

• ·       Help balance a scenario
• ·       Add thematic elements
• ·       Restrict or shape movement
• ·       Provide tactical options
• ·       Force decision making on the player

Traditionally, I have seen Terrain Placement mechanics follow a wide range of styles.  Here is a sample of some of the methods I have seen used in various games:

Follow the Map- This is a common approach in historical games.  Players are given a specific scenario and a map.  They are then supposed to lay out the board matching the map. 

• Advantage: The designer can use the map to “balance” the scenario with a known terrain configuration.  In addition, it can be used to match an actual historical scenario. 

• Disadvantage: The Players need the right shape and type of terrain to play.  In historicals, the scenario is often decided and the terrain made to fit before the game.  That is not true for more pick-up and casual play games.  There gamers tend to use what they have.

One Player Sets- In this situation, one player (often the host) gets to set-up the terrain anyway they want.  Then the other player arrives and chooses the side to deploy on and/or the force they are using.  This is a method that I use frequently in my home games. 

• Advantage: Quick and easy.  It allows you to get to playing quickly.  Often, a player builds the game to a theme and lays out terrain accordingly with this method  

• Disadvantage: The terrain is laid out purely at the players whim, often with no input from the opponent.  Not ideal for a casual or pick-up game.

Randomized Terrain- In this method, the game typically has some sort of terrain chart that is rolled on to generate a specific piece of terrain.  Placement can also be randomized using a scatter chart method or sections of the board. 

• Advantages: No player has definitive control over the terrain placement.  Where it goes and what it is is determined by an element of chance. 

• Disadvantage: Boards can be disorganized and look randomized.  Players may not have the specific terrain being called for. 

Alternate Placement- The players have a certain number of terrain pieces that they can place.  Each player takes turns putting the terrain on the board where they wish.  They can combine terrain pieces to make bigger or larger areas if they wish. 

• Advantage: Players take a role in placing terrain, which allows some tactical or game play opportunity in the set-up phase.

• Disadvantage: This can lead to terrain hampering game play.  Players can either place it all where it does not matter, or in the direct center of the board.  The board may look unfocused.

Fill the Grid- The board is divided into an arbitrary number of grid squares that all must have at least one piece of terrain in the grid space.      

• Advantage: The terrain is placed “evenly” around the board.

• Disadvantage: This can lead to a very “symmetrical” placement that no longer looks natural. 

Of course, these are just a flavor of possible ways to lay-out terrain.  Many games will use variants or combinations of the methods listed above such as Alternate Placement via Grid Square with Random Charts, as an example.  Of course, players can always choose to use whatever method they prefer despite what the rules say. 

Conclusion

By adding Terrain placement rules to a game’s core rules the designer gives themselves yet another tool to help shape the game experience.  They are a great tool for balancing scenarios or adding more decision making before a game even begins.  Setting up your board can be just as important as deployment or in-game decisions to the flow of the game.  Good general’s always use terrain to their advantage.  Game designers should follow their lead.    

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Wargaming on a Budget- Making a Board Look Good

For many years, my wargaming had a very strict budget.  In many ways this was a blessing as it forced me to focus on what I needed and wanted to accomplish in the hobby.  I couldn't do it all.  heck, I could barely do it at all.  Therefore, I had to focus on what I needed to do to make a game playable.  Often times, that included making rules, using paper templates, and figuring out how to make my own models.  Heck, even toys were often pressed into service.

 Of course, something that sets wargaming apart from board gaming, card gaming, role-playing games, and video gaming is the table itself.  A big draw is the visuals and the "spectacle" of a good battlefield.  This aspect could really make or break a good battle.  Today, I want to break down how to make decent terrain cheaply and easily.  Thankfully, it doesn't even require much effort!

A good gaming set-up is based around the following segments.  You need a table.  From there you need a gaming mat to cover it.  Then you need terrain pieces.  That's it.  You have a decent table.  We will be looking at this issue from various levels. 

The Gaming Table
Depending on the game you play, the typical play area is anywhere from 3'x3' to 8' by 6'.  That can be a lot of space that many people just do not have.  The cheapest solution I have found for creating a good baseline gaming table is to go to a big-box retailer and purchase two card tables and put a piece of plywood over it, go to a big box retailer and get three 2'x4' folding tables, or to just gut it out and build the table yourself out of plywood and lumber.  I have done all three.

Now, if you have an existing table, the easiest method is to buy a piece of lumber and throw is on top of the table when you need it.  Most places will cut a piece of plywood down to size, but larger boards maybe subject to a bit of warping in the center, so I prefer MDF.  MDF is heavier though so that maybe an issue.  A board like this can run you $10 US to $25 depending on the quality.  When not in use, you flip the board off and slide it behind the couch, entertainment center, or other suitable out of the way place. 

Two tables pushed together

You can use a variety of item to build makeshift boards.  I use some NSF wire racks and a pair of old closet doors for my table.   It provides storage underneath and a flat surface on top. Virtually anyway you can get four "legs" or supports and a flat surface will work.  Found materials or cheap items from a Thrift store work great for this method.

For a long time, I used 4 folding plastic tables that were roughly 2' x 4" and set them up together.  These were very portable and easy to carry, pack away, or travel with.  They are a bit more expensive as new ones from a Big Box retailer will probably run you over $100.  However, I was able to scout out my first set at a local Thrift shop for about $20 total to make a 8' x 4' board.  Another source can be local churches, libraries, halls hat are upgrading their inventory or garage sales.                   

In a real pinch, I just skip the table and go straight to the floor.  Typically, this is completely free!  As I get older, this option keeps getting tougher.

The floor

Gaming Mats
A Gaming Mat is simply a cover you put over a table to make it look like something other than a table.  There are many nice neoprene or foam ones with fancy designs printed on them.  Very nice, but pricey!  There are much easier and cheaper ways to get a gaming mat.

I find the easiest way to make a gaming mat is to go to the local Big Box store and get the following items:

1. A plastic table cloth of a suitable color
2. A sponge roller from the hardware department
3. A Quart of paint that is a contrast color to the table cloth
4. A place you can pour some paint for the roller

This will run you about $15-20 US.

Snow Mat

You then spread out the tablecloth on a flat surface.  Typically, these table clothes cover about 8' x 4" pretty easy.  You pour the paint, and then you use the sponge roller.  Just roll the alternate color across the surface of the table cloth.  You normally have left over paint that you can store to paint up terrain later.  You then leave it to dry over night.

General purpose Green Mat

I have made deserts, water, snow, "urban", and other exotic terrain types using this method.  They store very easily by folding them up and putting them on a shelf or in a plastic container.  They are also very light and easy to move from place to place.  You can even use multiple layers to help create simple terrain effects such as islands, rivers, swamps, etc.

Using various Mats and cutting to create a ocean, beach, and land

Of course, this is not the only way to make a good play surface to go on top of your table.  Another easy, and relatively cheap method is to go to your local Big Box retailer and take a stroll down their fabric section.  There, you can find pre-printed, light fabrics that can be cut to size for your table.  These range from various forms a camouflage, to black, to other patterns.  They can be more expensive then a cheap, plastic table cloth but they tend to be slightly more durable. 

Fabric

There is a third and final method.  This is the most expensive, but allows for the most "modular" of the gaming surfaces.  It is also the heaviest and hardest to store.  Go to your local hardware store and get a box of Vinyl tiles that are 1' x 1' in size.  You then apply a base coat f paint, and sponge a couple of similar yet contrasting colors and you are all set.

Vinyl tiles

Terrain 

On top of your nice game mat goes the terrain.  This is what your little armies of toy soldiers will be maneuvering around to achieve their objectives.  It is always nice to have an assortment of basic terrain to make use of to act as objectives and obstacles.  Some of the basics include a river, ponds, trees, shrubs, and hills.  With a good selection of these natural terrain items you can have a good looking table.  Thankfully, each of these can be cheap to make.  

Hills

If you are using a fabric or tablecloth game mat, hills are relatively easy to make.  You simply put a stack of books underneath the mat.  Boom!  Instant hills with semi-sloping sides for a more realistic look.  They are not always easy to balance minis on, but they look very naturalistic. 

Books under a cloth

Another easy way to make hills is to get some card board, cut it to a group of identical sizes, stack them up, masking tape the sides of them to seal the open edges, and then paint them up.  This can be cumbersome as it can take several layers of cardboard to get a suitable depth.

Layered Cardboard Hill

A second easy method is to gets pieces of styrofoam from the floral section of your Big Box retailer.  You can often cut them to size with a bread knife heated on a burner.  Be careful, it is hot!  You can then paint it up with left over latex paint from your game mat.  

Styrofoam Hills

Stack them for height

Rivers and Ponds

If you happen to make a water board table cloth mat, you can cut the extra 2 feet or so off and into lake and pond strips for use on your table.  That makes it really quick and easy!  However, if you do not have that option, I also recommend taking a look at the fabric section of your Big Box retailer for suitable gauze or light fabric.  I recommend making strips of about 8 inches long that can overlap to connect.  

Lake front property

To really make a river stick, line the edges with loose moss.  It really makes it pop and represents the shrubs and woods at the edge of any water feature.    

A fabric body of water

Shrubs and Fields

Most Big Box retailers have a craft section that sell fake flowers.  In that aisle, you will frequently be able to find a bag of loose clump moss for centerpieces and floral decorations.  They run between $3 to $5 US.  Buy 1 to 3 bags of this in various colors.  This moss makes amazing shrubs and scatter terrain.  They also do a great job "outlining" larger terrain pieces such as woods, rivers, or fields to act as a board.  it allows you to make "area terrain" very easily.  If you buy nothing else on this list, BUY THIS! 

Often, in the Fabric section of the same Big Box store you can find Faux Fur.   This makes great fields.  It often comes in square patches, that you can use as is or cut into smaller patches or strips.  When combined with the moss, it can make an excellent looking field.   

Faux Fur field with moss border

For hedges, I also recommend you go to the cleaning solution aisle.  There you will find packs of multi-colored sponges.  Often, there are a number of green sponges in the pack.  They cost about $3 to $8 US.  Buy a pack or two.  Once home, take out the green ones, and then use a scissors or knife to cut them into long thin strips.  You now have some hedges or hedge rows.

Trees
In the arts and crafts aisle of your local Big Box retailer, you will find packages of pipe cleaners.  If you can find black ones, that is great; but any color will do.  If you take 3 to 5 pipe cleaners you can twist them around each other to make a solid trunk, and then use the off shoots at the bottom to create a branch system at the top, and a root system at the bottom.  Then paint them brown.  The easiest way is to dip them into a can of latex house paint, but spray paint or brush paint works too.  Once dry, you can use white glue to attach clumps of moss for foliage.  These make great trees.

In addition, you can often find toy tubes of plastic toys int he Toy section of the Big Box retailer.  These are about $8-$12 depending.  They have a variety of small trees of various types.  I recommend two tubes, but you can make due with a single tube in a pinch.  Set them out on the table, and then outline the grove of trees with moss.  You now have a area terrain forest with 0 work on your part. 

Toy trees and moss for a grove

     
Dirt Roads
We again take a trip to the floral aisle.  Down this aisle, you will find a roll of burlap.  It will be far to long if you roll out the whole roll.  However, you have more than enough to make a couple of cross roads.  You can cut it to any desired length, and even cross it with ease.  If you also line the road with moss and rocks it will help it stand out even further.  This roll of burlap costs between $5-$8 US.

Burlap road with moss shrubs 

Buildings
These are by far the most challenging piece of terrain to make.  The easiest method is to get cardboard boxes of a size you like, spray paint them a base color, dry brush a contrast with a big ugly brush, and then print color images of windows and doors to glue on them.  Not a method I have used, but I have seen some amazing Super-hero and Mecha tables using this method. 

Typically, I actually build them out of cardboard.  Cut them to the shapes I want and templates I want and then glue them together.  I use masking tape to seal the edges and then you can hit them with spray paint for a quick finish.  Some spray paint even comes with texture now to make it even better.

Sadly, I never did finish painting this

The final method to create quick buildings is to find ready made interesting shapes and just put them on the table.  These can be electrical boxes, packaging, containers, what ever you come across!  The novel shape will often be good enough to make it work.

Novel shapes = Futuristic! 

Cardboard packing walls

Random Bits
Scatter terrain is also a very important part of wargame tables.  Things like barrels, boxes, crates, dumpsters, pillars, bushes, etc.  Crates and boxes can easily be made by stacking card board strips together and sealing the edges with masking tape, or cardstock off-shoots.  You can also make paper templates that you fold up and glue together as well.

PVC and cardboard crates in the background

Another great source is the local pet shop, toy store, or post-Christmas clearance bin.  You can find all sorts of goodies such as ruins, sand bag pits, walls, trees, etc.  These cost a bit more but can often serve to add a bit of spice to the table.   

Post- Christmas walls for a snow battle

Columns from a pet store for aquariums

Final Thoughts
Your local Big Box retailer is an easy way to make a nice selection of terrain for your wargames on the cheap.  Most of it is also relatively easy to construct or requires no special skills on your part.  You can make very nice, effective, portable tables for less than $50 US and about 2-10 hours of work (not including dry time).  To me that is a great way to make your money and time budgets last!

If you do nothing else from this article, go to the local Big Box retailer, go to the craft section with the fake flowers, and buy at least 1 bag of clump Moss and Lichen!  It will raise your terrain game 100%!

Give it a try and let me know some of your best finds in the comments.